Most of us grew up thinking we have unmanageable or bad hair. Truth is many of us just don’t know our hair. Often we are caught in a constant cycle of bad hair care. Often we are using the wrong products or using them for the wrong purpose. (This entry was motivated by a posting on Nappturality.com)
Consider the pH level of your hair.
- In order to understand what products you should be purchasing, you need to understand what the right pH level is for you and your particular hair type. If you are using products that have a high pH level, than you are stripping your hair of its natural essential oil. In this case our hair becomes much too dry, making it prone to breakage and further damage. (and then we use oil to try to add moisture to our dry hair when we actually we need a stop using the “stripping product” and find a real “moisturizer”.)
Here's a vocabulary that we should all be aware of no matter what "state" our hair is in:
Acidicity | Any substance with a pH lower than 7.0 is considered an acid. Acids affect the hair by contracting and hardening it. |
Alkaline | Any substance with a pH that is greater than 7.0 is considered an alkali. They affect the hair by softening and swelling it. |
Cortex | Hair has an outer covering of overlapping keratin scales called the cuticle, a middle layer of keratinized protein fibers called the cortex, and, usually, a central 'core' of round cells called the medulla. A medulla is almost always found in coarse hair, and often is absent from naturally blonde hair and very fine hair. Cortical cells constitute the bulk of a hair, and it is the cortex that gives a hair fiber its eventual shape, resilience, elasticity and curl. |
Density | Measured by counting the number of hair strands found in one square inch of scalp, the avg head has approximately 2,200 strands of hair per square inch. The Density is important for two reasons: cut and product types. Thick hair works well in layered styles, while thin hair is often looks better in more blunt styles and can benefit from volumizing products. |
Elasticity | Is the ability of hair to stretch and then return to its original length without breaking. It is an indication of how strong the side bonds are in your hair, which are the bonds that hold the individual protein chains of the hair strand into place. |
Cuticles | The hair cuticle is made up of an outer covering of overlapping keratin scales. The cuticle is responsible for much of the mechanical strength of the hair fiber. A healthy cuticle is more than just a protective layer, as the cuticle also represents the structure that controls the water content of the fiber. Much of the shine that makes healthy hair so attractive is due to the cuticle. |
Keratin | Keratin is an extremely strong protein which is a major component in skin, hair, nails, hooves, horns, and teeth. Hair and nails on humans especially tend to become dry and brittle, because the dead keratin is being pushed to great lengths. Keeping the external layer of keratin moisturized will also keep it healthy and prevent cracking and splitting, whether the keratin is forming the hooves of a horse of the skin of a human. By eating foods like gelatin and keeping hair and nails moist, they can be grown out while still remaining healthy. In general, the thicker the layer of keratin, the healthier the hair or nail is, because the dead cells outside protect the living cells at the core. |
Moisture | There is a big difference between damaged hair and dry hair. Dryness is found on the cuticle part of the hair. The cuticle is the outside layer of the hair. Damage is found on the cortex part of the hair. The cortex is the inside part of the hair. Hair strength is found in the cortex. Some try to correct dry hair by using protein conditioners. Dry hair is due to the lack of moisture so you need to use a humectants conditioner instead of the protein. Not that the protein will harm your hair, the protein will strengthen but not moisturize it. Hair needs water to maintain its elasticity, or ability to stretch. Since water is the ultimate moisturizer, water-based products are best for really getting the greatest moisture benefit. For black hair in particular, hair breakage is typically a result of an imbalance of important forces within the hair strand: moisture and protein levels. |
PH Levels | pH is measured on a scale of 0-14, with 7 being a neutral solution. The scale is from 0 (strongly Acidic) to 14 (Strongly Alkaline). Having a level of 7 represents neutrality. When acids and alkalis are combined in equal portions, they neutralize one another. Hair & Skin have a avg PH Balance of 5. (Actually 4.5-5.5, more acidic than alkaline |
Porosity | Refers to the hair's ability to absorb moisture. Very porous hair is typically damaged with the cuticle not completely intact, usually from too much bleaching or over processing from perms or relaxers. Porous hair absorbs hair chemicals very quickly and can become over process and damaged quickly. Porosity is a critically important factor in determining one's curly hair care. Since moisture is what defines and shapes our curls, the inability to keep moisture within the hair shaft will defeat the most valiant efforts to maximize curl potential. Your degree of porosity is directly related to the condition of your cuticle layer. Healthy hair with a compact cuticle layer is naturally resistant to penetration. Porous hair has a raised cuticle layer that easily absorbs water, but is quick to lose moisture as well. |
Protein | One of the main reasons hair becomes so dry and straw-like is because of over-processing. To keep your hair healthy, try periodic hair protein treatments as well as deep conditioning treatments. Hair Protein treatments restore, strengthen and recondition the hair, where deep conditioning treatments are formulated to add lots of added moisture deep into the hairshaft. ………. Hair is made up keratin, collagen and elastin; each is a form of protein. When these proteins lose their connectivity, hair starts to weaken and sheds. Supplying the body with enough protein is a good way to ensure that the hair gets the nutrients it needs to stay strong. Moisture: Hair needs water to maintain its elasticity, or ability to stretch. Since water is the ultimate moisturizer, water-based products are best for really getting the greatest moisture benefit. |
Shrinkage | Shrinkage refers to the tendency for tightly curled hair to grow out and re-curl back onto itself, rather than demonstrate its true length by growing straight. Tightly coiled hair may appear to be quite short due to this erratic growing and re-curling pattern. Shrinkage in very curly or black hair can be a friend or a foe. Depending on the size and degree of curl, shrinkage can be 50% or even up to 75% of its true length. Hair that falls to the mid back when straightened could shrink up to just below the ears when it dries naturally after a wash! |
