Coloring, Repairing and What-not



Slippage (hole) in permed end of loc



Holes, Slippage &Repairs:  Shortly after starting my Sisterlock journey, I took the course and learned to do them myself.   Yay for me!!!    After that class I also took the time to interlock the permed length of my hair.    It is in this area that I have experienced the most slippage.   A little before starting the blog I started slowly repairing slippage in my locs. 



"Say hello to my little friend"...um... new tool



   My favorite tool is a beveled tip upholstery needle (see pic).   The beveled tip is THE BOMB, and it glides easily into the locs with minimal force or damage.  Because of this, it can also be used to tighten up the holes in locs that result from incorrect rotations.   The eye of the needle can be enlarged by using a reamer for beads.       I started at the nape doing a combo of repairs and retightening.     Before I knew it I was using this new tool for the whole repair/re-ti/compacting locks process. 

Before this repair session many of my locs essentially looked like this

<<Professionally SL install **    Permed hair that I interlocked with (==slippage or loose hairs)

Scalp[<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<** ========<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<============

Trims:   About every 2 weeks I like to flatiron my hair.  Every couple of months I’d pull my newly straightened locks under my chin and trim .5 to 1 inch off.   Of, course this has led to a lot of slippage on the clipped locks (I’ve just come to realize this).    Now that I’ve retightend these, I will refrain from trimming for quite some time, the permed hair is not “locking”, and I don’t want it to unravel any more.   

Spray on Tem’pry hair colors:    This week, I also decided to check out a new hair color, “Black”.  The color looks both natural and good on me.  I used a spray on hair color by Jerome Russell (available at local BSS).   Careful though because I found that the color rubs off easily.  I also have a blonde color that I’m toying with. 

Pros:   Can’t damage hair; allows you to change up the colors as often as you’d like; allows for creativity with color applications;  very cost effective means of coloring at $4. per can.

Cons:  The Jerome Russell brand rubs off.  Careful application requires or you’ll look “spray painted”.  (hold head upside down and keep the can at least 10 inches away….then run your fingers through the hair to help distribute the color)

Brown hair

Black Hair, instantly!

Most of us grew up thinking we have unmanageable or bad hair.  Truth is many of us just don’t know our hair.  Often we are caught in a constant cycle of bad hair care.     Often we are using the wrong products or using them for the wrong purpose.  (This entry was motivated by a posting on Nappturality.com)

Consider the pH level of your hair.   

• In order to understand what products you should be purchasing, you need to understand what the right pH level is for you and your particular hair type.  If you are using products that have a high pH level, than you are stripping your hair of its natural essential oil.   In this case our hair becomes much too dry, making it prone to breakage and further damage.  (and then we use oil to try to add moisture to our dry hair when we actually we need a stop using the “stripping product” and find a real “moisturizer”.)

Here's a vocabulary that we should all be aware of no matter what "state" our hair is in:

Acidicity	Any substance with a pH lower than 7.0 is considered an acid.  Acids affect the hair by contracting and hardening it.
Alkaline	Any substance with a pH that is greater than 7.0 is considered an alkali.  They affect the hair by softening and swelling it.
Cortex	Hair has an outer covering of overlapping keratin scales called the cuticle, a middle layer of keratinized protein fibers called the cortex, and, usually, a central 'core' of round cells called the medulla. A medulla is almost always found in coarse hair, and often is absent from naturally blonde hair and very fine hair. Cortical cells constitute the bulk of a hair, and it is the cortex that gives a hair fiber its eventual shape, resilience, elasticity and curl.
Density	Measured by counting the number of hair strands found in one square inch of scalp, the avg head has approximately 2,200 strands of hair per square inch.  The Density is important for two reasons: cut and product types. Thick hair works well in layered styles, while thin hair is often looks better in more blunt styles and can benefit from volumizing products.
Elasticity	Is the ability of hair to stretch and then return to its original length without breaking.  It is an indication of how strong the side bonds are in your hair, which are the bonds that hold the individual protein chains of the hair strand into place.
Cuticles	The hair cuticle is made up of an outer covering of overlapping keratin scales. The cuticle is responsible for much of the mechanical strength of the hair fiber. A healthy cuticle is more than just a protective layer, as the cuticle also represents the structure that controls the water content of the fiber.  Much of the shine that makes healthy hair so attractive is due to the cuticle.
Keratin	Keratin is an extremely strong protein which is a major component in skin, hair, nails, hooves, horns, and teeth.  Hair and nails on humans especially tend to become dry and brittle, because the dead keratin is being pushed to great lengths. Keeping the external layer of keratin moisturized will also keep it healthy and prevent cracking and splitting, whether the keratin is forming the hooves of a horse of the skin of a human.  By eating foods like gelatin and keeping hair and nails moist, they can be grown out while still remaining healthy. In general, the thicker the layer of keratin, the healthier the hair or nail is, because the dead cells outside protect the living cells at the core.
Moisture	There is a big difference between damaged hair and dry hair. Dryness is found on the cuticle part of the hair. The cuticle is the outside layer of the hair. Damage is found on the cortex part of the hair. The cortex is the inside part of the hair. Hair strength is found in the cortex. Some try to correct dry hair by using protein conditioners. Dry hair is due to the lack of moisture so you need to use a humectants conditioner instead of the protein. Not that the protein will harm your hair, the protein will strengthen but not moisturize it. Hair needs water to maintain its elasticity, or ability to stretch. Since water is the ultimate moisturizer, water-based products are best for really getting the greatest moisture benefit.    For black hair in particular, hair breakage is typically a result of an imbalance of important forces within the hair strand: moisture and protein levels.
PH Levels	pH is measured on a scale of 0-14, with 7 being a neutral solution.  The scale is from 0 (strongly Acidic) to 14 (Strongly Alkaline). Having a level of 7 represents neutrality.  When acids and alkalis are combined in equal portions, they neutralize one another.  Hair & Skin have a avg PH Balance of 5.   (Actually 4.5-5.5, more acidic than alkaline
Porosity	Refers to the hair's ability to absorb moisture. Very porous hair is typically damaged with the cuticle not completely intact, usually from too much bleaching or over processing from perms or relaxers. Porous hair absorbs hair chemicals very quickly and can become over process and damaged quickly.   Porosity is a critically important factor in determining one's curly hair care. Since moisture is what defines and shapes our curls, the inability to keep moisture within the hair shaft will defeat the most valiant efforts to maximize curl potential.  Your degree of porosity is directly related to the condition of your cuticle layer. Healthy hair with a compact cuticle layer is naturally resistant to penetration. Porous hair has a raised cuticle layer that easily absorbs water, but is quick to lose moisture as well.
Protein	One of the main reasons hair becomes so dry and straw-like is because of over-processing.  To keep your hair healthy, try periodic hair protein treatments as well as deep conditioning treatments. Hair Protein treatments restore, strengthen and recondition the hair, where deep conditioning treatments are formulated to add lots of added moisture deep into the hairshaft.  ………. Hair is made up keratin, collagen and elastin; each is a form of protein. When these proteins lose their connectivity, hair starts to weaken and sheds. Supplying the body with enough protein is a good way to ensure that the hair gets the nutrients it needs to stay strong.       Moisture:  Hair needs water to maintain its elasticity, or ability to stretch. Since water is the ultimate moisturizer, water-based products are best for really getting the greatest moisture benefit.
Shrinkage	Shrinkage refers to the tendency for tightly curled hair to grow out and re-curl back onto itself, rather than demonstrate its true length by growing straight. Tightly coiled hair may appear to be quite short due to this erratic growing and re-curling pattern.  Shrinkage in very curly or black hair can be a friend or a foe. Depending on the size and degree of curl, shrinkage can be 50% or even up to 75% of its true length. Hair that falls to the mid back when straightened could shrink up to just below the ears when it dries naturally after a wash!

Your Hair Type, ..do you know it?

Know your hair type. 
After much research and several consultations I have found that, in order to really appreciate and understand your individual loc journey, you must know your individual hair type(s).   It can not be stressed enough that "SOME HAIR TYPES WILL TAKE MUCH LONGER TO LOC" than others and that some locs may appear shiny naturally, where as others will require "help" to look shiny.

Two Popular methods of hair typing are listed below. 

(Please email me if you'd like a clearer version of these, this is the best this BlogRookie could do today)

Special thanks to the following Sources from which I compiled this info: 

http://www.growafrohairlong.com/hairtypes.html;     http://fromgrandmaskitchen.com/;    http://diaryofakinkycurlytransition.blogspot.com/    

“Our” Vocabulary, Retention, & the (haircare related) Mis-education of the American Negro

By the way if you have not read the book, please do!

     First let me say that I have always had “long” hair with the exception of a few choice hair cuts; and, that I wore perms for almost 30 years.   With that said I’ll begin today’s rant.   Starting with our vocabulary.   OM’G!!!!!!!

    I’ve been seriously adjusting to the vocabulary of being Loc’d and still trying to tolerate the vocab of those that are not loc’d.

    We generally understand that one should not tell a child that they are ugly no matter how “unfortunate” looking the child may be.  We could look in the face of a gorilla lookin’ baby and……will struggle to find something positive to say, despite how we feel.   BUT when it comes to our hair…”our hair?....Wow; we won’t hesitate a midget’s minute to be harsh and throw out the “ugly” vocabulary.

Separating the roots of locks: …I prefer the term untangling/de-webbing, heck anything but poppin’ and snappin.   

Trimming excess hairs:    …..I prefer the term Grooming/Trimming to pruning, I’n not growing branches here.

Real vs. Fake locs’:   ….. It is my belief that if it’s growing from your head, it’s real.  If it’s been attached to your head , then they are “fake”.      I will not get into the matters of taste (cultivated, manicured, twisted, palm-rolled, interlocked, freeform, thick, thin, micro, or etc.)

Natural vs. Non-“natural” Naturals:   OMG, and wow!    It is my belief that if you are natural if you do not perm/relax/texlax/texturize your hair .  I do believe that you can change you hair color and still be considered natural; however, I just recently walked away to avoid a debate with someone who IMHO takes the intent of the term natural way toooo far. 

 This person was standing there glaring  at a “Honey Golden Blonde” afro and was telling me that that person is not natural just because of the hair color!  ….Yes, I walked away.    I know of others who feel one must use natural products to be “natural” .  Now mind you 90% of these folks had on faces full of “makeup”.  ME, I’m standing there thinking that that’s why it’s called “makeup”,’ cause it ain’t “natural”.

Insulting Haircare lines marketed towards Black:  I’ll try to be brief.   Advertisers usually have a “targeted audience” and they position their products totarget this “audience”.   The makers of products such as Softee, Don’t-B-Bald, Doo-Gro, Black and Sassy, Dr Miracles, and Organic Root Stimulator (ORS) are sending messages that I just don’t agree with (though I did try ORS locking gel, I quickly replaced it with Tahila Waajid  products first chance I got).     NOW, there is a beauty supply store called of all things “The-N-Word” a place that clearly targets blacks , the actual domain looks like Then-Word.    I purposely put in the link to the SEARCH RESULTs but I dare not encourage anyone to access their web-site, there by validating their existence:  http://search.yahoo.com/search?p=the+N-word+hair+care

You should really read this book, REALLY

More Mis-education (in my opinion):   1. We need grease.  2.  We shouldn’t wash often.  3. Hair care approaches that treat our hair like it’s a “garden” (politely put).  4. Our hair won’t grow long unless we ___________). 5. Braids make you hair grow.     
BOTTOM Line: We have to take care of our hair no matter what the length/condition/style it is in.  I find that too often we have bad habits/advice  that cause breakage, and thus prevents us from seeing the “actual” growth that we’ve achieved.  AND often its difficult for us to break these bad habits. 

Bling, Nape, & Repairs

The title of these 1^st few entries will be very “random” since I’m trying to recap my 1^st year with SLs.  

Bling: I’ve enclosed a closeup shot of my “nourished” locs just to show a lil’ bling that my otherwise, thirsty-dirty-dishwater-brown hair is currently rocking.    I believe this bling is credited to my glycerin water mix and the Honey/Vitamin E Oil rinse I did a 2 days ago.



Nape loc'd at 10 months



Loose haired Nape.  Longest length

Nape:  The point of this is to show that “retention” is very important to seeing length and determining growth results.  I’ve always hated my nape.  It looks like a Z drawn by a blind 4year-old (not neat at all).  The 1^st nape shot is from my nape when my hair was “loose” and about 2yrs into my babying this area by applying the perm last, and texlaxing(underprocessing) all at the same time, this was about as much length as I ever held on to.    The 2nd nape shot is of the same area with a 10month old Sisterlock install. 





Repairs:  I’m slowly interlocking the back of hair from the nape up.   My “endstate” should be locs that are tighter and less frizzy. 

Mentioned earlier: I started twisting (instead of latching) sometime in October.    

Perhaps I should also mention that:  At some time during my journey  (April-June) I began interlocking the relaxed portion of my SLs, this was a very-very-very- tedious process but I wanted all of my hair done, so I started this DIY project.   The process was never completely finished because I had a lot going on during this timeframe. 

With that said starting from the nape up, I’m now going through loc – by – loc and repairing.  Tip-to-Middle and Root-to-Middle as needed.  The picture here shows the newgrowth & the repaired “compacted” area of the loc.   I hope to be done with this phase before spring .  (I’m in no rushing)  

Repair for: unraveling
 permed ends & flyaways

I HOPE TO GET BETTER WITH PICTURE PLACEMENT, LOL

Initial Shock and Self-Maintenance

Install
     During the final stages of my “migration” towards sisterlocks I did a ton of research, a “TON” I tell ya!   I clicked through (what seems like) every SL Fotki out there.   Still the frizz and the “scalpyness” was a bit much for me to take in.  

     After my install was complete I spent quite a few minutes in the mirror tweaking my ponytail, frizz and length issues, while mulling over solutions to thoughts like:  What will my “co-workers” think?  How will they react?      Am I going to have to explain this?    Man, I took of half-a-day to get this done?  I can’t go in looking like this …..and to think I spent $400+      OMG!  



Fly-aways!
I can't have this happening every time I take my cap off!



          Some of you might say, who cares what they think.   Well, perhaps now that these are not “ordinary co-workers”,  I’m Military and Uncle Sam (“Specifically AR 670-1”) not only tells us how long our nails can be, it also sets forth guidelines about how to wear our hair.   It uses terms like  “unkempt” which is highly subjective; also there’s this verbiage:  “Soldiers must take pride in their appearance at all times, in or out of uniform, on and off duty” which is also subjective.    Clearly I was walking the line with this decision especially with my Time-In-Service and Rank.  It was this point that gave me the resolve to “adjust” the path for My Loc journey, and I’m glad I did.  Thank God I had 32 hours before I have to go back to work!!!!!!   

       I did what I did, and I’m quite pleased with my decision.   My hair is naturally dryer, fine/thin and “wispy” to say the least.  Wigs/weaves, or other cover-ups were out of the question.   

Self-Maintaining

     I admit that since my class I’ve only been back for 1 or 2 retightenings.   DIY has taught me a lot of patience and at least 1 good trick to counter the scalpy look.  (I think the hair/scalp color contrast influence me more than just being able to see my scalp

     I to do my re-ti’s in (calculated) sections, this lessens the scalpy look of a fresh re-ti.  (about 3-4 rows in around the circumference, wait a week, then do the rest in sections, by the 4th/5th week you might want to repeat the process)



Touching up the back area.



    I’m very tender-headed so this next tip is not a problem for me:  Never re-ti too tight, and avoid tightening  the locs to the point that it’s “snug” to the head.  Leave room for “flexibility”, you’ll feel better and worry less.    Especially if you wear a lot of ponytails/buns like I have to.

  

 The last picture show my usual work pony, the bun was toooo tight for my tender head.    Though I've gotten comfortable wearing buns now.



Can’t We All Just Get Along?

The flyaways pre-extensions,
 OMG the controversy!

 (after all we've all walked away from the "relaxer")




What an honor, the Dr's is in!
She visited our training class

  

Bottom line up front:  I have been surprised to find that in the Black hair communities strongly biased attitudes are rampant (Natural, Loc’d, Relaxed, Mixed or whateva).  

A few weeks into my locking journey I sat in a room full of varied hairstyles (who were all there to learn become Certified SisterLock ™ trainees).  The list below includes several of the comment I received because “I” chose to alter my SLs by “adding” length to the shorter ones in my crown/bang area (and Yes, I did this myself before I knew this was taboo).

ü  “You can’t do that to SLs they aren’t SLs anymore”.

o     (My thoughts: Ummm, I paid $400+ for this “install” and I’ll damn well do with them what I please.  Besides if your loc’ snapped off you’d tried to “attach” it back…..)

ü  Just cut those “dead” ends off!!!!

o    (Coming from a someone with a lovely head full of someone else’s hair with an agreement nod, from a relaxed sistah)

ü  “Long-hair is a crutch”, “It’s just hair, it will grow back”

ü  “You can’t manage two hair textures”

ü  “Why would you flat-iron your “locs”?

ü  “Whyyyyy would you do that to your hair?”

ü  “How long are you going to keep that style?”

ü  “Loc’s are dirty"

o    (this from a SL’er referring to the usual types of Locs)

RANDOM COMMENTS FROM OTHER RANDOM FOLKS:

Ø  “Cultivated locs are not real locs, they are a fashion statement... My locs are “real” or …”Those are SLs? I have “real” locs”

Ø  “That’s why Madame CJ Walker invented the Straightening Comb”

o    (from “permies”) … ugh the irony!

Ø  Strange stares followed by…..“When are you going to comb you hair.”

o    Notice I did not put this down as a question, I know this was a statement about what I need to do with my hair, LOL.

Ø  “I can’t be looking crazy, that’s why I wear my…….. “

o    (from wig/weaver)…”

Ø  I have been totally amused when on more than one occasion I’ve seen a weave wearer sit amongst a group of non-black’s and diss another sister’s hair

o    ….Talking about “s-t-u-p-i-d”.   Child please! Acting like “you” have overcome…..

In closing, I'd just like to pray that we in the natural or (tightly coiled) community rid ourselves of the Negative Energy, Comments, Vocabulary, and Perceptions.    Heck if "We" don't then "They" never will. 
 

A few members of my training class.  We're now Certified SisteLock Trainee's! 
I'm om the end rocking a briad-out.  6weeks in to the Journey